To paint them, simply clean them very well, tape off the top and bottom mating surfaces, and use a quality high temp spray paint. You can grind them down in profile so that when they are in their open position they block less flow. Leaving them in untouched is an option as well. They do present a blockage in total flow, but it's impossible to say whether they would present a loss in HP on the dyno vs. As with external TGV thermal dispersant coatings, phenolic gaskets are the best to use, but their benefits are nigh impossible to measure on a dyno.
This is one vehicle modification that is fairly complicated and should only be tackled by those with extensive Subaru experience. This information is somewhat outdated for the later models though, so if you see something has changed with later models or other models, please post up.
While it is always better to have a mod tuned for, this is one modification that could be performed with no future tuning if you so desire. The traditional route is to disconnect the negative battery terminal, press the brake pedal for a few seconds to bleed the system of charge, and reattach.
I came up with the text based on LOTS of searching here. It was also created to be intentionally brand neutral so that it serves as a stepping stone for further research. Upon reading this you should have an idea of which TGV Delete best suits your needs. The manufacturer is up to you. Why are you banned but not? They also fit STI but require enlarging two holes in the intake manifold on each side, unless STI intake manifold is used.
Thanks, but I'm not touching any fitment with a 10 ft pole. Great write up however! Awesome FAQ. Great FAQ otherwise : But like you said, its not done. However, it's also been argued that turbulence is a good thing to have when introducing fuel into an air stream. It is supposed to supplement mixing.
Thanks for another great FAQ! Can you please add a few words about fitting the APS servo blocks? Were you able to find that photo with the blocks installed with their brackets? I've only seen one photo of them installed and that was on the APS website which is now gone from there. Nowhere I've seen has fitment instructions for them. I used to have them and let them hang all ghetto. Let me search and add it for everyone, thanks. I think I found the photo!!!! Is this the right one? I have an 09 Forester and was planning to get TGV topfeeds off one member.
On the placement of the TGV motors the way I did it was to make sure the butterflies are closed all the way, remove the bolts from the drive motors, hold the butterflies so the dont snap open when you remove the motors, pul the motors off then remove the sensors, when you put the mtotrs back on just set the rod straight reinstall the motors the the sensors, as I read the instructions Unabomber was so nice to set a link for you set the sensors with the plug in facing line the sensor up on the rod then twist it 90 clockwise untill the bolts line up, bolt it down and your good to go.
Also i would make sure you mark left and right sides on the motors just incase. Wnated to add something real quick, when reinstalling your empty shafts in to the housings be careful not to knock them in too deep, the bearing will bind up on the spring mount below the drive gear, if this happens it is a bit of a bugger to pull the bearing back down in place ya I did it :D any how good luck to you all on this mod and remeber take your time!!
They may or may not want me to post a scan here, so I'll describe in words. As far as placement of the servo adapters: Unlike the photo that I've found, these are ment to be installed vertically, using the brackets. The passenger side adapter stands vertical, with its wide side paralel, above the coil packs. The bracket holds it by two screws and is fastened through the bracket screw of the power steering line.
In other words: the powersteering line passes under the side of the coolant tank. On this side, the sensor will be towads the fender and the motor will be towards the intake manifold. On the driver's side, the bracket goes above the dipstick support bracket.
Take the screw out, then put the TGV bracket in. The TGV adapter goes paralel above the coilpacks with the motor towards the fender and the sensor towards the manifold. Installation is: You rotate the gear of the adaptor clockwise till it hits the stop. Then fit the motor. Then you slide the sensor into the adaptor shaft, so that you can then rotate it clockwise 90 degrees, till the cable connector is facing upwards, then fasten that in place.
Also, the positions that APS selected for the servo coupling brackets were not possible, cannot be used. Next, I wanted to attach the couplings to the intake manifold, to keep everything as an assembly. As soon as I went back to install the manifold, this was not possible.
So, in the end, I used one of the two brackets without modifying it and the other after I modified it big times. Those are your two causes. I've fought this battle before, and nearly went crazy trying to figure out where I went wrong. I didn't notice the passenger side side of TGV motor hose.
I will have to check in the morning. Didnt see it in there so I'm gunna ask. What about the long rod hole left thats inbetween the 2 runners?
You have to plug the outer holes but what do you do with the inner ones? I think the importance of the servo deletes is if the future of state inspections will hold methods for the state of detecting if the OEM software has been altered to turn off CEL. I'm only speculating. Kind of stuck in a bind at the moment, the break in map that my tuner had sent me did not have The cel fix for the tgvs, car feels like it is in limp mode but I called tuner and he said the CELs should not put the car into limp mode?
What am I missing here? Car has hesitation and struggles to go past 4k Change the map and see if anything changes, or wait the break in peroid, then change the map and see what changes. P P P P Tuner is saying that this should not put the car into limp mode. I was wondering if TGV deletes were installed, would it be safe to have the cel codes turned off on my tuned map before tgv delete , and drive it without a retune? Any chances of leaning conditions with the tgv delete? My car does not feel like it's in limp mode, but then my car can have a weird limp mode I've just did tgv deletes on my car and got the cels Waiting to get the codes turned off, but my tuner told me that I should do a retune.
Is it possible to disable the tgv cel's with a utec? No, if you leave the motor and sensor in and unplug them, a resistor would not allow the plates in the TGV to open and close properly. I don't know if the default position of the TGV is open. If it's not, your car would run chocked. I don't think it ever got completed, it's not that simple of a project. The APS mechanical fix, is really simple on the other hand and works very well. These days it even sells cheap.
I think Cosworth is going to come up with TGV deletes of a whole new kind One side is a motor, the other side is a sensor, the ECU sends a signal to the motor to change the position of the valves, then verifies the change with the sensor. A simple resistor won't do anything. The only way to satisfy the system is to actually link the motor and sensor mechanically, so the sensor registers the movement of the motor. The much much simpler way is to just uncheck the CEL codes in your tuning software when you flash the car and leave the motor and sensor disconnected permanently.
Hey guys I have a few questions. I currently have a code which is the reason I am doing the deletes. I got a set that are totally deleted so that rods can't go back in. I will be getting tuned but would already having a code cause an issue? Could I have a bad sensor that can't be tuned out with a cell fix? Also can the cob AP fix this issue?
I am looking to tackle these this weekend but can't afford the car to go into limp mode. So what would be my easiest fix? How can I do this through the AP? I talked to my tuner and he said I couldn't do it through the AP. He said he would need to do it. How would I go about doing it through the Cobb AP? I don't have much experience with self-tuning via the AP, but you should be able to open your map in Access Tuner Race and turn them off there, then load the map on the car directly or onto the AP and then to the car.
The only reason you wouldn't be able to do this is if your current map has been locked by the tuner, in which case you would need him to turn them off and give you a new map. I am actually just on a Cobb map right now. I will tho be going to get pro-tuned soon tho so any tgv cell can be turned off at the tuner correct? So there is really no tgv cell I have to worry about throwing me into limp mode?
I can swap away and be safe? Sidefeed usdm sti. I don't believe that's true, but I've been wrong before. I've only turned off one so far. The usual one.
But just wondering before I do it. There is no "one", if anything the codes come in pairs There is no master TGV code, except maybe for the bit ECUs there still is no master code, but the open source tools have one checkbox that turn off all the others.
They all begin with "TGV". Of course turning them off won't mess anything up, turning off CELs will never mess anything up. I haven't done my tgv yet I was talking about the p or something around those lines. I am getting the tgv's soon so I was looking for the next code to shut off when I get those in.
I'm debating doing the deletes in a couple weeks. I plan to go in the route of gutting the tgv's but leaving the rods in. I'm doing this because the closets tuner to me is about 3 hours away, and really don't wanna trailer my car to the place.
Currently my car has -intake -turbo inlet -GS EBCS -catless up pipe -catless turbo back -stg 2 tune at 17psi My question is, will I notice a difference with still having my stock turbo and be safe tune wise or do I really need to get my tune edited a little to notice any gains? Not about deleting my TGV's but I thought this would be a good place to ask. Why would you do that? Wow now Im really confused. Heres my issue. My cel light came up p when I cracked the sensor getting at the banjo bolt in April.
My only car so I silicone it and it seem to run fine no idle issues or things of that nature. Erased it with my reader. Today it comes back on. I dont need any deletes. How difficult is it to change out the sensor itself. I dont see any write up about it. Does it make any difference if driving it with the cel on or off? Seen something about pulling the sensors and just getting it ''tuned''? Im new so feel free to flame.
Excellent site though. Keep up the good work people. I installed an UP and must have done something wrong as I have P reading now no other codes. However, contrary to the Sticky, my tuner says the TGV motor runs independently from the sensor, i. To support this, I've had the code for a week, thinking it was the typical missing UP EGT sensor code, and the car has run fine during all driving conditions, i.
In newer Subarus, there's no winding to install sort of feature. Let me end this by, no, I'm no expert. Unibomber may very well come in and correct me, but with this code, my car still runs fine.
I will be fixing it soon. You got the code meaning something is more then likely broken or failing. I had the code a while back after doing an inlet install. Code went away and never came back but the car never really seemed to be running right. Finally got around to doing the deletes and the car immediately started better and just felt better.
I am now getting a tune for them. But then I realized I would be pissed if I got em all back together and code was still throw due to me lousing up the reinstall.
Filling holes seem more logical. Gonna plug em with special whale sperm and toenail clippings and call it a day. Or tap and fill em with bolt and some JB. I wish I'd read this when I had my manifold in pieces I would have definitely put in the work at that point.
Nice write-up, Ron. Great Write Up, this sounds like it would be pretty straight forward. My car will be able to be down for two weeks so I'd like to do this while I can. Also included in the kit are new gaskets for the manifold to upper TGV, engine block to lower TGV and replacement bolts to secure both the manifold and tumbler castings to the engine block. Prior mechanical knowledge and specialist tools are required.
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